Here are the highlights.

Azienda Vitivinicola Villa Alme’ El Rasego Raboso Piave DOC Black Label 2006 undergoes a Valpolicella-style appassimento process and is aged 30 months in large oak barrels. The result is a fascinating cluster of aromas that spans dried dates, sun-baked bricks and bubble gum, and an clay-like ashy tannin that you can practically chew on. This is a Veneto varietal worth exploring.

Ca’ del Bosco Cuvee Prestige NV is the quintessential Franciacorta sparkler. A Champagne style blend comprised of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Noir, it’s yeasty with a massive floral bouquet.

Cantina Produttori Cormons presented mineral-packed whites true to the character of Friuli Venezia Giulia. DOC Collio Friulano 2010 is a joy. Flint, matchsticks and mimosa. Crisp and clean with traces of spice. An excellent exemplar of the varietal. The DOC Collio Sauvignon 2010 exudes pure white peach that returns with an acidic prick on the palate.

Barolo Fossati DOCG 2006 comes from a higher altitude vineyard in La Mora and gleams with a petrol-like aromas. Darker in every way, it still leaves an immensely pleasant yellow apple aftertaste on the palate.

Historic Veneto winery  Zonin colonizes Tuscany with their Rocca di Montemassi Sassabruna Monteregio DOC 2009. A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Merlot.  Rich, a bit gamey and true to Maremma stylings, you can taste all three varietals in an interesting harmony of solo players. It bursts with sunbaked fruit and flowers and has that rustic, on-the-verge of refined quality that makes Maremma so unpretentiously good.

D’Alessandro Azienda Agricola’s D’Alessandro Inzolia Sicilia DOC 2010 smelled of bone dust and sea water. Pure Sicilian.

I sprayed in my linens many morning and love the way it streams through my house like pure joy.

Recently I attended a masterclass at the Atelier Cologne boutique in NYC, where I had a chance to meet co-creator Christopher Cervasel and perfumer  Ralf Schwieger and learn more.

Most interestingly, the line takes its name (Cologne) and inspiration from perfumery’s quintessential first cologne, Aqua Admirabilis created 300-some years ago by a homesick Gianpaolo Feminis  living in Cologne, Germany.

The fragrance, delicate, citrus-driven blend of bergamot, orange, neroli, rosemary and lavender  was meant to recall his beloved Italy. It was reformulated by Feminis’ nephew the 18th century  and  renamed Eau di Cologne. The style, light and citrusy, set the stylistic standard for years to come, distinguishing eau de cologne from eau de parfum.

Atelier Cologne pays homage to Feminis and his original blend, while intensifying the percentage of perfume essences and writing their own fragrance stories, beginning as it happens with that summer morning in Italy.

At the masterclass I sampled the entire line of  Colognes Absolues.  In the interest of space, these were my favorites:

Grand Néroli, created by Cécile Hua, is strikingly nostalgic. The heady Moroccan neroli and Sicilian bergamot overtones create a vintage quality that reminded me of old cologne bottles in my grandfather’s medicine cabinet. It softens however with musk and vanilla – just enough to lend it a ladylike accessibility that is still intriguing.

Trèfle Pur, pure clover, exudes brightness and green. As it happened we were gathered on St. Patrick’s Day, and the luck of the Irish was streaming through the city. I loved the clean earthiness of this scent. Top notes of bitter orange, cardamon and basil rebuild the herbaceous  quality of clover, and the actual heart note of clover does come through, if slightly  insinuated, and rests on a bed of moss and musk.

Ambre Nue, the latest fragrance in the line, was born on a Dolomite mountainside. During a recent Italian vacation, Cervasel and his wife and co-creator Sylvie Ganter discovered a tiny red flower, the nigritella rubra, that smelled overwhelmingly of amber.  While there is a bit of the actual flower essence in the blend, they’ve constructed a sumptuous amber with Sri Lankan cinnamon along with notes of mandarine and bergamot, a tribute to the flower’s crisp Italian context.

For me, this fragrance  is the essence of terroir in perfumery. Its construction carries on a legacy. There is sentimental connection to the place that inspired the perfume, and lastly, a piece of that place, the orchid nigritella rubra in extracted form, is in every bottle.

For one thing, spring is so close you can practically feel it through the chill of every morning. Buds are popping and bursting defiantly and against all reason like little epitomes of optimism.

I myself am just emerging from a dark coccoon – an accord of man troubles and woman troubles – helped along by the clarifying power of a long run.

I like to try out new fragrances when I exercise. The spike in body temperature expedites the transition to the dry-down, and makes my every grateful inhalation that much more so. It’s also a great way to gage a perfume’s staying power, and lastly if not obviously, it’s the best way to see how a fragrance will fare during excessive motion, friction and perspiration.

I remember being perplexed by this Tubéreuse  Criminelle when I received the sample earlier this year.

There’s certainly a great divide among the community, and it’s been relegated to the love-it-or-hate-it category, like  so many masterpieces.

The fragrance, first released by Serge Lutens in 1999 and created by  perfumer Chris Sheldrake, begins with the most disagreeable toxic top note not unlike black permanent marker.

And yet disagreeable as a perfume. I love that smell and I’m not alone. It’s alluring and forbidden, not unlike petrol fumes or  turpentine-laden paint thinner.  Something keeps you coming back, and the fact that too much of it can kill you must be taken into account. Dark and foreboding yet irresistible.

I just wasn’t sure how I felt about it on my skin. About twenty minutes into a mostly uphill climb the ice began to melt. But not all at once.

What remained was a sort of crystallized floral, still ice-cold, but lovely and beckoning. Delicate even, but  deep purple in color and wrapped in cool mint and resinous tones. Imagine a bud bursting forth from an alpine peak. Fragile yet desperate to bloom.

I wore it all the way home, where at a certain point it blossomed completely, and attracted a pack of bees for a few blocks.

There is a sweet and ladylike flower deeply embedded here behind the brassy edge. Like so many women, she has evolved defenses for survival.

Look beyond them and melt.

There’s always a festive feeling with the Italians, a cross between a high school reunion  (a lot of back slapping, cheek-kissing, and winking) and a night out at the bar (a lot of staring at backsides, cheek-kissing and winking).

I felt right at home.

Italian Wine Masters featured exclusively on four DOCG appellations: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  That translates to some slightly dressed-up versions of Italy’s party bubbles (AKA Prosecco) from the Veneto region and the heavy hitters from Tuscany, serving up Sangiovese in its three most notable manifestations along with some totally Tuscanized international varietals.

I went straight for the big reds, as it was chilly outside, though I did take a minute to re-school myself on Prosecco, made from the eponymous Prosecco grape, or more specifically, the Glera grape.  In this particular sub-zone, trace amounts of local varieties Verdiso, Bianchetto Trevigiana, Perera and Glera Lunga.  Here’s the deal. Prosecco will never be Champagne, so it’s useless to compare the two. It’ll only lead to disappointment. Instead, think of Prosecco as that cute fun guy you met on vacation.  Sweet, perky and forgettable.  But undeniably fun.

Also, it’s simply perfect with peanuts. The bubbles and the residual sugar bring out their earthiness and balance the salty slickness.

But on to the big boys.

Brunello producer Col d’Orcia’s  Sant’Antimo Olmaia 2006, exemplifies the power of  terroir in this area.  The 100%  Cabernet Sauvignon  wasn’t exactly tamed as it was adapted.  Smooth and green, it had a rugged and ruffian edge  in that uniquely Tuscan kind of way.  Their dessert wine, Moscadello, made from Moscato Bianco, was gorgeous and crisp with a massive bouquet of white flowers.

High altitude (Panzano) producer Cennatoio made the most mineral-rich Chianti I’ve ever tasted.  Pure salt  with a refreshing vinous quality on the Avorio 2009, whereas the Cennatoio 2009 wrapped up with coffee cola and molasses.

I couldn’t pass up San Felice, one of my all-time favorites. I discovered their aptly named Vigorello, an exuberant “Supertuscan” at a crowded osteria in Florence. They’ve been revitalizing indigenous varietals like Pugnitello, which makes up around 10% in several of their Chianti Classicos. The 2009 was delightful and smooth. Definitely drinkable right now.

At the presentation of Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri awarded wines I began with Volpe Pasini‘s Pinot Bianco Zuc di Volpe 2010. It was extremely mineral, with a heavy limestone quality and strikingly smooth texture. The Sauvignon  2010 was salty and intriguing, whereas the Pinot Grigio 2010 was steely and extremely characteristic.

The next and last white I tasted was an extraordinarily clean and elegant Orvieto Classico Superiore Bianco 2010 from Decugnano Dei Barbi.  The Umbrian blend is always a pleasure for its rich minerality and down-home country florals, but the extra refinement really suited this one.

After that I headed straight for the Amarone producers.  Brigaldera Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie ’07 stood out for its notable aftertaste of toasted cinnamon and date skin. Bertani Amarone ’04 was the best of the bunch, crisp, clean and recognizable.  Trabbuchi d’Illasi organic Amarone ’06 was really green and grassy with the meatiness of a Venetian Cabernet and the crispness of Valpolicella. Very interesting.

Other reds of note included Franco M. Martinetti  M.to Rosso Sul Bric ’09, a  blend of Cabernet and Barbera with chewy tannins and a great element of black licorice.  I also loved  San Patrignano‘s earthy Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Avi Ris ’08 and Braida Barbera d’Asti Bricco dell’Uccellone ’09.

As far as most of the world is concerned, most of what Portugal has to offer by the bottle is sweet, smoky Port – chocolate’s champion fortified companion.

The Doero Boys, a conglomeration of five winery owners, have made it their mission to promote dry table wines alongside the national dessert beverage and revive Portugal’s centuries-old winemaking tradition—starting with their native region of the Douro Valley.

Like most Roman colonies, winemaking was prevalent throughout Portugal. In fact, the Douro Valley is listed as a UNESCO cultural heritage site precisely for evidence of vitis vinifera dating back 3,000-4,000 years, as well as the ingenious terracing methods devised by farmers in order to plant on rugged steep slopes.

The first mention of Port as a significantly Portuguese wine wasn’t until 1675, thanks to a great British demand for sweet strong wines, and the facility of sea transport. Higher alcohol content is less likely to spoil during long sunny voyages.  Up until then, dry red and white wines made from more than 40 indigenous varietals were the norm.

The Douro Valley lies in the northeast of the country alongside the Douro River (the Duero in Spain), and enjoys granite and schiste-rich soils. The extreme continental climate is characterized by long cold winters and hot dry summers.  The red grapes in the region have evolved to combat such conditions and their thick-skinned character makes for plentiful tannins and extract. In fact, until recently, foot-pressing was the preferred method, in order to avoid crushing the stems and seeds and making for a silkier texture. Some of the Douro Boys’ wineries still employ the process and the result is evident.

While most everything I tasted was a blend of 13 varietals or more, the so-called “high-quality” varietals in use today are: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and Tinta Cão.

I tasted from three different wineries, starting with the easternmost, Quinta do Vale Meão. Here, temperatures are the most extreme, and waterfalls in the area distribute a variety of minerals on their rich selection of soils. The two reds I tasted were both barrique-aged but not overwhelmingly oaky. Their flavors were rustic and rough, still a bit tight, but certain to smooth out with age. Dark fruit and earth were palpable on the nose and the palate. The 2008 Vintage Port was complex and deep with chocolate and cola notes and an almost powdery texture.

Next was the westernmost winery, the Wine Spectator darling, Quinta do Vallado. First I tried an incredibly cool, crisp and aromatic white blend based on Verdelho and Viosinho – richly floral with white peach and lemongrass aromas not unlike a high altitude Italian Sauvignon Blanc or an extra dry Pecorino.   The baseline DOC red 2009 did a good job of taming the tannins and had an easy fruit quality that could be considered unpretentious and crowd-pleasing in the best of all possible ways.  Their 100% Touriga Nacional had some edgy tannins on it still but would balance delightfully with hearty food. Their field blend, the typical Douro style of 20-some varietals (some unknown even to the winemakers) was rich, complex and wild with very dusty tannins. Chewy, raw and characterful. Their Vallado Adalaide Vintage Port 2009 on the other hand was smooth, floral, and sweet.

Niepoort Vinhos adheres to an all-natural philosophy. The only chemical in their viticultural arsenal and cellar is sulfur. Their DOC White, Tiara is made of 15 or so indigenous varietals. It was incredibly light, yet characterful with what can only be described as a genuinely cool finish.  Vertante DOC 2008  is made form 15 different varietals and barrique-aged for five short months. Lightweight with persistent sweet spices, good tannins and a bright green quality.  The Redoma DOC 2007  is made from 50-year-old vines of 13 varietals. In addition to stiff tannins, the acidity was extraordinary. Batuta DOC 2008  comes from 80-year-old vines. It’s thicker and deeper with a wet bark quality.  Charme DOC 2008 was foot-pressed and so much smoother. The Vintage 2009 Port was my all-time favorite. Floral, purple and sweet like a luscious lady but with a thorny tannin to keep you from drinking it too fast. A textural balance like none other.

Enrico Radar, Assistant Director Sentieri Italiani

Chicago

Now that the  fog has lifted I wanted to share my impressions.

Rome was the usual whirlwind of too little time. Rushing is an awkwardly anachronistic sensation in city that scoffs at the mere suggestion of a quickening its pace, so I took myself out of time with as much wine as possible. When it wasn’t Campari it was Castelli and Frascati white wines  - salty, mineral-rich blends of local varieties Trebbiano and Malvasia di Lazio. Sometimes a little bubbly and a fantastic, fat-skimming companion to all three plates of carbonara I enjoyed (not in the same day, at least that’s what I’m telling the judge).

One night, while sitting outdoors at a corner bar in  Centocelle – a swarthy, populist neighborhood in the throws of gentrification – I asked for anything but Prosecco, and received a glass of Imperatore, a local Venetian sparkler that was so subtle and unimposing, yet nothing short of perfect with potato chips and the back and forth glances with the boy at the table next door.

Next stop: Positano, also known as paradise.

As friends of the gregarious Le Sirenuse hotel manager, Antonio, we enjoyed breath-taking views and bathtubs of Champagne.

I’m generally a purist when it comes to crudo – clean white wines like Vermentino and Muscadet with their subtle lemon notes and sea salty finish have always been my preferred pairings for oysters or sashimi. Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut swept in and swept me right off my feet with a palate so delicate and elegant without overbearing. The bubbles were finely formed yet never abrasive. The slightest complexity from the Pinot Noir grapes actually drew out the sweetness in the raw prawns, while the perlage washed over Bretagne oysters like a purifying baptism of sea spray on the finish.

Back down on earth we enjoyed heaping plates of pasta with fresh anchovies and fennel seeds  and grilled calamari from the local trattoria. We drank Marisa Cuomo’s blends of indigenous grapes Fiano, Grecco di Tufo, Biancolella, and Falanghina.  The baseline bottles (Ravello Bianco) and the slightly oak-aged, richer, riper ones (Fiorduva) all exude the smoky mineral quality that I love so much about the Campania region. Vesuvious is always in your thoughts and your glass over there.

I have the pleasure of entertaining a 6’5” South African of the male species for dinner soon and was pondering a meaty stew of Wild Boar, Chorizo, Chestnuts and Mushrooms to suit the South African meat palette.

Although some red wine and vermouth is included in the recipe, what would be the most suitable wine to accompany this sturdy, tasty stew?

Thanks,

Francesca,
London, UK

PS – Here’s the recipe:  http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/wildboarstewwithwild_86762

Answer: Hi Francesca,

First of all, my compliments for attempting to cook with wild boar. That is one tough meat to work with (pun intended)! 6’5″ isn’t bad either!

For starters it’s a great misconception that the quality of wine in a recipe will greatly influence the final outcome – unless you’re going for an explicitly wine-flavored sauce.  Use any cheap dry read for this recipe.

As for the wine selection, you definitely need something with body and complexity to match the flavors and textures of the stew. It also sounds like quite a savory dish, so a red wine with a lot of fruit will be a nice compliment. Think cranberry sauce on turkey, mint jelly on lamb, dried apricots on a pork roast, etc.

I would go for a really rich Tuscan blend like Tenuta di Trino Le Cupole Trinoro Rosso Toscano, or even a Chianti. I really love the fruit in Vignamaggio. Try and get a bottle with some years on it. ’07, ’05 are both great.

Otherwise a Sardinian red would be a really traditional pairing for something so substantial. Cantina Santadi Terre Brune makes a Carignano del Sulcis Superiore that will really get your blood flowing and marry extraordinarily with your meal.

Enjoy!