While much of the Italian peninsula is covered in snow, things were heating up at NYC’s  Metropolitan Pavilion. With both the Italian Masters tasting followed soon after by Gambero Rosso’s illustrious Tre Bicchieri,  the city’s tradesmen (and women) and Italophiles crowded the halls to get a taste.

There’s always a festive feeling with the Italians, a cross between a high school reunion  (a lot of back slapping, cheek-kissing, and winking) and a night out at the bar (a lot of staring at backsides, cheek-kissing and winking).

I felt right at home.

Italian Wine Masters featured exclusively on four DOCG appellations: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  That translates to some slightly dressed-up versions of Italy’s party bubbles (AKA Prosecco) from the Veneto region and the heavy hitters from Tuscany, serving up Sangiovese in its three most notable manifestations along with some totally Tuscanized international varietals.

I went straight for the big reds, as it was chilly outside, though I did take a minute to re-school myself on Prosecco, made from the eponymous Prosecco grape, or more specifically, the Glera grape.  In this particular sub-zone, trace amounts of local varieties Verdiso, Bianchetto Trevigiana, Perera and Glera Lunga.  Here’s the deal. Prosecco will never be Champagne, so it’s useless to compare the two. It’ll only lead to disappointment. Instead, think of Prosecco as that cute fun guy you met on vacation.  Sweet, perky and forgettable.  But undeniably fun.

Also, it’s simply perfect with peanuts. The bubbles and the residual sugar bring out their earthiness and balance the salty slickness.

But on to the big boys.

Brunello producer Col d’Orcia’s  Sant’Antimo Olmaia 2006, exemplifies the power of  terroir in this area.  The 100%  Cabernet Sauvignon  wasn’t exactly tamed as it was adapted.  Smooth and green, it had a rugged and ruffian edge  in that uniquely Tuscan kind of way.  Their dessert wine, Moscadello, made from Moscato Bianco, was gorgeous and crisp with a massive bouquet of white flowers.

High altitude (Panzano) producer Cennatoio made the most mineral-rich Chianti I’ve ever tasted.  Pure salt  with a refreshing vinous quality on the Avorio 2009, whereas the Cennatoio 2009 wrapped up with coffee cola and molasses.

I couldn’t pass up San Felice, one of my all-time favorites. I discovered their aptly named Vigorello, an exuberant “Supertuscan” at a crowded osteria in Florence. They’ve been revitalizing indigenous varietals like Pugnitello, which makes up around 10% in several of their Chianti Classicos. The 2009 was delightful and smooth. Definitely drinkable right now.

 

At the presentation of Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri awarded wines I began with Volpe Pasini‘s Pinot Bianco Zuc di Volpe 2010. It was extremely mineral, with a heavy limestone quality and strikingly smooth texture. The Sauvignon  2010 was salty and intriguing, whereas the Pinot Grigio 2010 was steely and extremely characteristic.

The next and last white I tasted was an extraordinarily clean and elegant Orvieto Classico Superiore Bianco 2010 from Decugnano Dei Barbi.  The Umbrian blend is always a pleasure for its rich minerality and down-home country florals, but the extra refinement really suited this one.

After that I headed straight for the Amarone producers.  Brigaldera Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie ’07 stood out for its notable aftertaste of toasted cinnamon and date skin. Bertani Amarone ’04 was the best of the bunch, crisp, clean and recognizable.  Trabbuchi d’Illasi organic Amarone ’06 was really green and grassy with the meatiness of a Venetian Cabernet and the crispness of Valpolicella. Very interesting.

Other reds of note included Franco M. Martinetti  M.to Rosso Sul Bric ’09, a  blend of Cabernet and Barbera with chewy tannins and a great element of black licorice.  I also loved  San Patrignano‘s earthy Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Avi Ris ’08 and Braida Barbera d’Asti Bricco dell’Uccellone ’09.