As far as most of the world is concerned, most of what Portugal has to offer by the bottle is sweet, smoky Port – chocolate’s champion fortified companion.

The Doero Boys, a conglomeration of five winery owners, have made it their mission to promote dry table wines alongside the national dessert beverage and revive Portugal’s centuries-old winemaking tradition—starting with their native region of the Douro Valley.

Like most Roman colonies, winemaking was prevalent throughout Portugal. In fact, the Douro Valley is listed as a UNESCO cultural heritage site precisely for evidence of vitis vinifera dating back 3,000-4,000 years, as well as the ingenious terracing methods devised by farmers in order to plant on rugged steep slopes.

The first mention of Port as a significantly Portuguese wine wasn’t until 1675, thanks to a great British demand for sweet strong wines, and the facility of sea transport. Higher alcohol content is less likely to spoil during long sunny voyages.  Up until then, dry red and white wines made from more than 40 indigenous varietals were the norm.

The Douro Valley lies in the northeast of the country alongside the Douro River (the Duero in Spain), and enjoys granite and schiste-rich soils. The extreme continental climate is characterized by long cold winters and hot dry summers.  The red grapes in the region have evolved to combat such conditions and their thick-skinned character makes for plentiful tannins and extract. In fact, until recently, foot-pressing was the preferred method, in order to avoid crushing the stems and seeds and making for a silkier texture. Some of the Douro Boys’ wineries still employ the process and the result is evident.

While most everything I tasted was a blend of 13 varietals or more, the so-called “high-quality” varietals in use today are: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and Tinta Cão.

I tasted from three different wineries, starting with the easternmost, Quinta do Vale Meão. Here, temperatures are the most extreme, and waterfalls in the area distribute a variety of minerals on their rich selection of soils. The two reds I tasted were both barrique-aged but not overwhelmingly oaky. Their flavors were rustic and rough, still a bit tight, but certain to smooth out with age. Dark fruit and earth were palpable on the nose and the palate. The 2008 Vintage Port was complex and deep with chocolate and cola notes and an almost powdery texture.

Next was the westernmost winery, the Wine Spectator darling, Quinta do Vallado. First I tried an incredibly cool, crisp and aromatic white blend based on Verdelho and Viosinho – richly floral with white peach and lemongrass aromas not unlike a high altitude Italian Sauvignon Blanc or an extra dry Pecorino.   The baseline DOC red 2009 did a good job of taming the tannins and had an easy fruit quality that could be considered unpretentious and crowd-pleasing in the best of all possible ways.  Their 100% Touriga Nacional had some edgy tannins on it still but would balance delightfully with hearty food. Their field blend, the typical Douro style of 20-some varietals (some unknown even to the winemakers) was rich, complex and wild with very dusty tannins. Chewy, raw and characterful. Their Vallado Adalaide Vintage Port 2009 on the other hand was smooth, floral, and sweet.

Niepoort Vinhos adheres to an all-natural philosophy. The only chemical in their viticultural arsenal and cellar is sulfur. Their DOC White, Tiara is made of 15 or so indigenous varietals. It was incredibly light, yet characterful with what can only be described as a genuinely cool finish.  Vertante DOC 2008  is made form 15 different varietals and barrique-aged for five short months. Lightweight with persistent sweet spices, good tannins and a bright green quality.  The Redoma DOC 2007  is made from 50-year-old vines of 13 varietals. In addition to stiff tannins, the acidity was extraordinary. Batuta DOC 2008  comes from 80-year-old vines. It’s thicker and deeper with a wet bark quality.  Charme DOC 2008 was foot-pressed and so much smoother. The Vintage 2009 Port was my all-time favorite. Floral, purple and sweet like a luscious lady but with a thorny tannin to keep you from drinking it too fast. A textural balance like none other.